Diamonds and brilliants

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Diamonds and brilliants the eternal question
If there is a question that they always ask me, it is: What is more expensive, a diamond or a brilliant? For this reason, today I have felt the need to write this small article to try to remove doubts on this subject.

The diamond, king of kings

You all know the diamond, - I personally dream of one in baguette size, flawless, three carats and in "d" color, I just have to figure out how to finance it, but that is another detail that does not concern this article... - I said that all We know what a diamond is: that gem that drives us crazy because it is absolutely perfect when it comes to being glamorous.

We also have it in mind because of Marilyn’s song "diamonds are the best friends of girls" and we have seen them protagonists of spectacular robberies in unforgettable movies. There is no red carpet without diamonds.

The most classic engagement ring has this gem and the diamond symbolizes eternal love. And the shiny? The brilliant is a diamond cut in a “brilliant” cut. It's that simple, or is it?

Origin of brilliant cut

This way of cutting and faceting the diamond dates back to 1919 when Marcel Tolkowsky, a mathematician and prestigious Belgian gemologist, published a theoretical-technical study that spoke of the ideal proportions to achieve the full brilliance and dispersion of a diamond.

This cut is known as the "brilliant cut" and although it was designed and developed for this particular gem, it is currently executed in different gems, both white and colored. Until today, the brilliant cut has remained the most standardized cut for diamonds, especially for engagement rings.

The brilliant cut proper

This cut achieves, thanks to a mathematical study that the diamond shows off its brilliance in all its expression. Let's not forget that when light hits the gem part of it is reflected on the surface and another part is transmitted inside. This indicates two important factors: brightness and luster:

  • Brilliance is the light that emerges from inside the gem
  • Luster indicates light reflecting off the surface.

The luster of the diamond is very high, which is called "adamantine luster".

To optimize both brilliance and luster, this cut has been developed, consisting of an upper part called the crown, separated by the girdle from the lower part known as the butt, whose tip is called the culet.

Now, the shape of the brilliant cut is round, but it has a total of 57 facets, of which 33 are made on the crown and 24 on the butt. If the culet were present, the facets would be 58 in total.

Proportions, the secret of brilliant cut

I remember perfectly that when I was past the adolescent phase I realized that I would not grow anymore and I would stay with my 1.58 m. my parents and grandparents insisted that this was nothing serious because I was a "well-proportioned" girl... I suspected that this was not entirely true since they repeated it too much for it to sound credible.

Years later, already satisfied with both my height and my proportions, I came across this term again in a gemology seminar on diamond brilliant cut, where the importance of proportions in cut was penetratingly insisted, since it is precisely they who will consent to the success of the cut and decide its quality. In the brilliant cut it must be taken into account

  1. The height has the crown
  2. Butt depth _ _
  3. The diameter of the table

Tolkowsky's formula tells us that the crown should have between 12% and 15%,

The depth of the butt will be between 42% to 44% and the diameter of the table will match between 53% to 64% of the gem. With a cut that respects these proportions, if the diamond is of good quality, you will have a wonderful brilliant, which will hypnotize you with its beauty and splendor.

Other diamond sizes

The diamond has the following sizes:

Round, Marquise, Oval, Pear (or Drop), Baguette, Heart, Carré and other creations called “Fancy” that do not follow a known pattern and are the product of the inspiration and talent of the diamond lapidary.

I confess that I like them all!

When asked if a diamond or a brilliant is more expensive, the answer is that a brilliant   is a brilliant-cut diamond. So its price will depend on its clarity, the purity of its color, the carats and obviously the quality of its cut! I hope you liked this article on diamonds and diamonds.

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